You just landed the fish of a lifetime. What you do in the next hour matters more than you’d think.
At Stehling’s Taxidermy, fish are where this shop began — more than 30,000 mounts since 1978. After fifty years on the bench, we can tell you the single biggest factor in how good your finished mount looks isn’t the taxidermist. It’s how the fish was handled before it ever reached us.
The good news: protecting your catch is simple if you know the steps. This guide walks you through exactly what to do from the moment the fish hits the net.
Fish Field Care at a Glance
- Don’t gut, scale, or fillet the fish — we need it whole.
- Take measurements — length and girth — and a few photos showing natural color.
- Wrap it in a wet towel, slide it into a plastic bag, and freeze it as soon as possible.
- Keep it cool until you can freeze it; never let it bake in the sun or sit in a hot livewell.
- Catch-and-release? You don’t need the fish at all — measurements and photos are enough for a replica.
Step 1: Decide — Skin Mount or Release?
Before anything else, decide whether you’re keeping the fish. If you want a traditional skin mount, you’ll keep the actual fish and freeze it. If you’d rather release your catch — or you’re after a saltwater or catch-and-release species — we can build a fully custom reproduction from your measurements and photos. (More on that in our Skin Mount vs. Replica guide.)
Step 2: Handle It Gently
A fish’s color and fins start fading and drying the moment it leaves the water. Handle it as little as possible, keep your fingers off the flanks, and never hang a trophy fish by the gills if you’re planning to mount it.
Step 3: Photograph the Color
Color fades fast — and a good taxidermist rebuilds that color by hand. Take several photos right away, ideally in natural light, capturing the flank, the fins, and the gill plate. These references are what let us match your fish rather than painting a generic blank.
Step 4: Measure
Two numbers make the difference: length (nose to tail) and girth (the distance around the thickest part of the body). If you can, jot down where and when it was caught, too.
Step 5: Wrap and Freeze
This is where most fish get ruined. Don’t toss a bare fish in the freezer.
- Lay the fish flat and straight, fins folded naturally against the body.
- Wrap it in a wet towel or wet paper towels (this prevents freezer burn).
- Slide it into a plastic bag or trash bag, press out the air, and seal it.
- Lay it flat in the freezer so it freezes in a natural, mountable shape.
What NOT to Do
- Don’t gut, scale, or fillet it.
- Don’t freeze it dry or unwrapped (freezer burn ruins skin mounts).
- Don’t bend, fold, or cram the fish into a small space.
- Don’t let it sit warm for hours before freezing.
Bringing Us Your Catch
Once it’s frozen, you can drop the fish at either of our Wisconsin studios — Jefferson or New Franken (Green Bay area) — or arrange to ship it. Either way, the same family handles it from intake to install. Start your mount or get a quote.
Frequently Asked Questions
How soon do I need to freeze my fish?
As soon as you reasonably can. Keep it cool and out of the sun until then; the sooner it’s frozen, the better the mount.
Do I need to keep the fish for a mount?
Only for a skin mount. For a replica/reproduction — common with catch-and-release and saltwater fish — measurements and photos are all we need.
Should I gut my fish before freezing?
No. Bring it to us whole and unaltered.
What if I already filleted it?
Reach out anyway — depending on what’s left, a reproduction may still be possible from your photos and measurements.
Continue Exploring Fish Taxidermy
- ➤ Fish Taxidermy — See five decades of fish work.
- ➤ Skin Mount vs. Fish Replica — Which is right for your catch?
- ➤ Fish Taxidermy Cost — What a mount really costs.
- ➤ Contact Us — Drop off, ship, or start a replica.
